What comes to mind when I say “Bacchus”? Probably the coolest Roman god of all: the god of wine, sensual pleasure, and celebration. But during a recent trip to London, I discovered that Bacchus is also the name of the grape variety that symbolizes English wine.
Because yes, the British do make wine. And they make it very well, too. I know, it might seem strange when you think of a country that, in the collective imagination, is all about beer, pubs, fish & chips, and afternoon tea. Yet the history of English viticulture is much older than you might imagine.
Getting back to our friend Bacchus, it was the Romans who introduced the grapevine to Britain nearly two thousand years ago, planting the first vineyards during their occupation of the island. After their departure, production continued, mainly thanks to medieval monasteries, but the cool, rainy climate always made it difficult to produce wines of consistent quality. Furthermore, for centuries it was more cost-effective to import wine from France and other European countries than to produce it locally. Thus, English winemaking remained a niche activity, almost a curiosity.
Over the past thirty years, however, something has changed. Rising average temperatures, combined with a better understanding of the soil and significant investments in the sector, have transformed the country’s wine-growing landscape. Today, southern England—particularly the counties of Kent, Sussex, and Hampshire—features chalky soils very similar to those of the Champagne region in France. This, combined with slightly warmer summers and longer growing seasons, has created ideal conditions for producing classic method sparkling wines.
And it is precisely with sparkling wines that England has built its international reputation. The most widely grown varieties are, in fact, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir—the same ones used in Champagne. Today, the sector is booming: the number of wineries is growing every year, and the area under vine has increased rapidly, attracting investment from major foreign producers as well.
But what about this Bacchus? We’re finally getting to it. Bacchus is an aromatic grape variety developed in Germany in the 1930s by crossing Silvaner, Riesling, and Müller-Thurgau. It never achieved great success in its homeland, but in England it has found its ideal home. Thanks to the cool climate, it develops an explosive aromatic profile, with notes of elderflower, citrus, tropical fruit, and aromatic herbs, while always maintaining a splendid acidity. It’s no coincidence that it has become the fourth most widely grown grape variety in the country and serves as the benchmark for English still white wines.
I’ve tasted it, and I can tell you just one thing: what a delight. Fresh, fragrant, incredibly easy to drink, and with a personality all its own. In short, if you thought England could only produce beer and gin, perhaps it’s time to make room for a good glass of Bacchus as well.
If you’d like to explore new grape varieties too, book one of my in-home wine tastings in Ravenna.