Mexican wine is on the rise, especially in California and the U.S. wine market thanks to proximity and curiosity. But what’s the connection between Mexico and Italy in the world of wine?
Like all New World wine regions, Mexico discovered grapes during the colonization period, from 1520 onward. Primarily Spanish varieties were brought into the country by the conquistadors and by missionaries afterwards.
But the country is today a melting pot of other European grape varieties like French and Italian, imported mostly by immigrants. In fact, it’s not until the beginning of 1900 that modern winemaking truly took off in Valle de Guadalupe, which today accounts for 85% of Mexican wine production.
Among the firsts to open a winery there was the Italian immigrant Angelo Cetto in 1926, who is now responsible for half the country’s total wine production with his L.A. Cetto Winery. He was followed by another Italian, Camillo Magoni, in 1965 who started collaborating with L.A. Cetto to grow Nebbiolo in Baja and who now has its own winery too –the famous Casa Magoni.
Another Italian that is now a star in Valle de Guadalupe is Paolo Paoloni with his 38-hectare Villa Montefiori that includes vineyards, a tasting room and a hotel since the 90s.
Yes, because if in 2006 there were less than 25 wineries in Mexico, today the number is over 150. And if you count hotels and restaurants we go up to 400 structures.
But how does Mexican wine taste like, especially compared to the Italian wine?
We have recently organized a wine event in collaboration with Vino Migrante and All About Baja Wines in San Diego to compare Italian varieties with the same Mexican varieties.
[With Veronica Carrillo of All About Baja Wines]
Generally speaking, weather in Mexico is hotter because closer to the tropics, although it’s still possible to grow grapes because the climate is dry. The results were revealing: Mexican wines tend to be full-bodied, riper, and more alcoholic, while Italian wines remain fresher and higher in acidity.
Let’s take a Chardonnay for instance. It’s a very adaptable grape, meaning it can grow both in a cool and warm climate. But the flavor profile will be different. During the event we tasted Wegerhof Leite Chardonnay DOC vs Cava Maciel Venus Blanco. The first one that comes from Trentino Alto Adige has a bright acidity and citrus notes whereas the Mexican Chardonnay is fuller body and developed more tropical flavors.
Also the winemaking techniques are different in the two countries. Italian winemakers prefer cleaner and fresher wines, with less use of oak in the cellar. During the event we compared Alpi Retiche Nebbiolo IGT vs Zanzonico Wines Nebbiolo. The first Nebbiolo from Lombardia feels very light in the mouth with notes of fresh red fruits and herbs. Grapes were in fact fermented in stainless steel tanks and then aged both in cement and neutral large casks. Zanzonico Nebbiolo is definitely a bolder wine and since it was aged for 24 months in new oak barrels you get all those aromas of vanilla and smoke that kind of overpower the fruit and cut the acidity.
Wine in Mexico is definitely a younger industry compared to Italy but in the past 10 years they have made so many progresses! That’s why it’s becoming a really popular wine destination.
Bravo!
If you want to know more about going wine tasting in Mexico, send me an email to sipwithcarlotta@gmail.com. We are also promoting a public wine tour in collaboration with Vino Migrante on March 2nd 2025: https://www.eventbrite.com/e/1225537117509