Italy has more than 400 commercial grape varieties. We are used to hear – and drink – common grapes like Nebbiolo, Sangiovese, Primitivo, Malvasia, Vermentino…but what about the rest?
I was born and raised in Italy and every time I’m there I bump into new wines. Here some of my newest discoveries – from Trentino Alto Adige to Puglia:
-Lagrein: this red grape is grown in the Trentino Alto Adige region, around the city of Bolzano. It’s related to Syrah and comes from a natural cross between Teroldego and another indigenous grape variety of the area.
It gives a deep purple wine with aromas of blackberry and blueberry. I have tried a very juicy version made by Alois Lageder, an historical producer located in Magrè, Alto Adige. This 6th generation family-operated winery is known for its sustainable and biodynamic farming.
-Ansonica: I have discovered this grape while dining on a beautiful terrace at Isola d’Elba. I have asked the server of Koala restaurant a wine to pair with my fish dish and he offered this bottle of Elba Ansonica.
Ansonica is a white variety that grows both on Isola d’Elba and on anther Italian island: Sicily. Here it takes the name of Inzolia. Funny enough, the first time I drank a wine made with Inzolia grape I was not in Sicily but in Valle de Guadalupe, Mexico, where this wine is produced by the Sicilian Paolo Paoloni at his Montefiori estate.
Ansonica/Inzolia grape is low in acidy, has a decent body with aromas of white flowers and tropical fruits.
-Bombino bianco: I came across this wine during an event in Rimini. The name of the DOC is very funny: Romagna Pagadebit (pay debts). In fact, this grape is so prolific that it was used to pay debts in the past. This wine is very entry level, like a table wine. Has a bright acidity and a green aroma profile.
Emilia Romagna has dozens of grape varieties and wine styles. If you are interested in knowing more about one the richest culinary region of Italy don’t miss the “Emilia Romagna Food and Wine Masterclass” on July 20th promoted by our friends of Balsamico Italian Kitchen in San Diego.
-Susumaniello: native red grape from the province of Brindisi, Puglia, Susumaniello produces full body and high alcohol wines with structured tannins and intense fruit forward aromas. In the past, it was only used for blends. Now producers have rediscovered it and they have started making single variety red and rose’ wines with it.
I tasted my first Susumaniello rose’ at the Gambero Rosso tasting in Los Angeles last year and this wine, a 2022 produced by the 100 year old family estate Varvaglione, received Tre Bicchieri in the 2024 Gambero Rosso Italian Wine Guide. This wine is very pleasant with floral and pomegranate notes. I can’t wait for my next trip to Sicily to taste it on the territory!
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